Asia Chapter Visit 2024 Naples, Rome and The Vatican

The Journey Begins in Naples

The 26 September 2024 was a beautiful day in Naples with warm weather, bright sunshine and azure skies. By the Gulf of Naples stood the historic Grand Hotel Veusvio, where gathered within were 30 Asian patrons. This was the 7^th Asian patrons’ trip since the inception of APAVM. Previous trips must have made a deep impression as half of them were repeat participants.

This trip began fittingly with a presentation by Maria Cristina White da Cruz, an expert of on the history, art and culture of the ancient city of Naples. Her talk “See Naple and Live” gave us a foretaste of what to expect in the ensuing days. “Italy on steroids” is how Maria Cristina describes this ancient city, the third largest in Italy. Naples was founded by the Greeks as an outpost around a thousand years BC, and was developed into a metropolis by the Romans and later conquered by the Normans, Germans, Spanish and the French Bourbons. It was the capital of the Duchy of Naples, followed by the Kingdon of Naples and finally the capital of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies until the unification of Italy in 1861. Throughout Naples’ long and storied history, the singular momentous event that stands out is the eruption in 79AD of Mount Vesuvius, which blanketed the neighbouring cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum.  In more recent times, the city was bombarded by the Allies in World War II and was severely damaged

Naples is a city where one may find Greek tombs, cisterns, bomb shelters and catacombs underground and Baroque churches, ancient roads and buildings above.

The people of Naples are both deeply religious and superstitious at the same time. The churches are juxtaposed with vendors selling the ubiquitous red horns to ward off evil. This is also a city with a deep devotion to its patron saint, St Gennaro, with shrines to its patron of football, Maradona.

Naples’ long history has seen it rise to become a very wealthy kingdom rich in culture, as well as descend to a city with high unemployment and crime after the reunification of Italy. Both World Wars, the Great Depression and fascism had forced many of her people to emigrate to the Americas and Australia.

Maria Christina’s talk was brought to life by a walking tour of the many historic sites located near our hotel: the Piazza del Plebiscito, Royal Palace, Umberto I Gallery, San Francesco di Paola Church, Castel Ovo and Castel Nuovo. We ended our first day with dinner at the Caruso Roof Garden Restaurant in the Grand Vesuvio Hotel, which offers a panoramic view of the Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvio.

On day 2, we journeyed to the year 79 AD when we explored the Pompeii Archeological Excavations with expert guides Mattia Buondonno and Marily. The unexpected eruption of Veusvius 79AD, blanketed Pompeii with flows of pumice, causing its denizens to die from asphyxiation. Their bodies decomposed over time leaving holes in the pumice. These holes were filled with plaster by archaeologists and the plaster casts reveal the physique and postures of the unfortunate people and animals that were trapped by the pumice flows. Adults and children were found cowering and hugging each other, reenacting their location and activity at time of the eruption.

We walked along the roads of the ancient city of Pompeii and visited the homes and shops of those who lived there. We were awed by their town planning, architecture and the frescoes coloured black red and yellow that adorned the walls of the wealthy, which managed to survive 2000 years.

After the exhausting morning walk around Pompeii, we had a welcome respite at the Winery Bosco de Medici, where we our multi course lunch was paired with wine from the winery.

An evening with Caravaggio

Naples is the city where the great artist Michaelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio fled to after he killed a man during a brawl in Rome. He established himself as a great Baroque artist in Naples before moving to Malta. Our second evening was dedicated to discovering the person and works of Caravaggio. To introduce him was Dr Philip Ferrugia Randon. A Knight of Malta and lawyer, Dr Randon, whom we had met a year earlier in Malta, is an expert on the life and works of Carravaggio. The talk he gave us, “I Am Fire”, was a spell binding performance that combined images of Caravaggio’s works, Dr Randon’s poetry, his emotional delivery, all woven together with music      specially selected by Dr Randon.

Monumental Complex of Donnaregina and the Diocesan Musuem

Our experience of Caravaggio continued after our dinner at the Monumental Complex of Donnaregina and the Diocesan museum. Here his works were brought to life by the actors in the Caravaggio’s Tableaux Vivants Show. On an empty and dark stage, actors enact scenes from Caravaggio’s famous works with just a few props, deft changes of costumes and the draping of fabric.

This show concluded the evening’s events which had started with a tour of the churches of Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia (the old church in the complex ) and Santa Maria Donnaregian Nuovo (the new church in the complex). These two monumental churches are adjacent to each other and stand over an 8^th century monastic complex. The old church (Vecchia) was built in the early 14^th century for the nuns of the Poor Clares order and is in the Gothic style. It is covered with rare and beautiful 14^th century frescos.  An earthquake damaged the old church and Queen Mary of Hungary financed the building of a new church (Nuovo) in the Baroque style in the 17^th century. The complex also houses the Diocesan Museum which displays a collection of religious art.

History, Pizza and Nativity Scenes

Day 3 of our trip was spent further immersed in the history and culture of Naples. We visited the Archaeological Museum which houses the artefacts from the archaeological excavations at Pompeii Once again, we had a glimpse into the lives of the people who lived in that fated city.

Naples is proud to be the birthplace of pizza and boasts that it has the best pizzas in Italy. They are also known for elaborate and detailed Nativity scenes which are found in homes and churches. After the Museum visit, our afternoon was spent enjoying both these iconic features of Neapolitan life, starting with a delicious pizza lunch at a well-known pizza restaurant, Concettina ai Tre Santi Pizzeria. We were so full after eating the many different pizzas at lunch that we were relieved to walk down San Gregorio Armeno street, famous for the many workshops that make figurines for Nativity scenes.

We visited one such workshop called “Ars Neapolitana”, owned by Guglielmo Muolo’s family for generations. Here we were shown how the heads of these exquisite figurines are moulded from terracotta and then fired in an oven. Following this, they are hand painted with life like features and then attached to a body made of straw. The final step in this whole process is dressing the figurines in little hand sewn costumes. The making of each figurine is a painstaking, artisanal endeavour, hence the hefty price tag on each of these works of art.

Sansevero Chapel and The Veiled Christ

We continued on to Sansevero Chapel where we had a tour of its many magnificent marble sculptures, the most stunning being the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino. The artistic genius of the artist is shown in his ability to transform an opaque marble block into a sculpture depicting a translucent veil covering the lifeless body of Christ as he lay in the tomb. The many folds of the veil look dynamic and seem to move it covers the sacred body, revealing at the same time the wounds of Christ’s Passion.

Santa Chiara Cloister

We ended out long day at the Santa Chiara cloister, located in the historic centre of Naples, where were met by Francsican Friar Peter.

The Cloister is located behind the 14^th century church of Santa Chiara, and was built in the 18^th century as a home for both monks and nuns of the Franciscan order. Both church and cloister suffered from bombing during the second world war but have been restored.

The garden of the cloister is planted with citrus trees and its design evokes a feeling of peace and tranquility. The pillars and benches in the cloister garden are covered with beautiful majolica tiles. The tiles covering the pillars have designs depicting vines, lemons and flowers winding round the pillars while the tiles on the seats depict 18^th century scenes.

Pio Monte della Misericordia

Day 4 was a Sunday and we had the privilege of attending morning Mass at Pio Montedella Misericordia in which hangs a famous Caravaggio painting. Pio Monte della Misericordia (Pious Mount of Mercy) is a church founded in the 17^th Century by 7 noblemen who used to minister to the sick and dying in a hospital. They wanted a painting to express their mission of charity and commissioned Caravaggio to do it. Caravaggio painted “The Seven Works of Mercy” which hangs above the altar. This painting demonstrates vividly the chiaroscuro technique which Caravaggio is famous for: the contrast of dark and light, with light illuminating the 7 charitable works.

Mass was celebrated by Father Jean Paul Hernandez SJ, whose homily deftly tied the theme of Mercy in Caravaggio’s painting to the Gospel reading of the day (Mark 9: 38-43) which providentially happened to be about Christ’s call to show mercy.

After Mass, we remained behind to admire the other religious art in the church before moving to the art gallery above it which houses both renaissance and modern art.

Catacombs of St Gennaro

A visit to the St Gennaro Catacombs was the next item on our itinerary. Cut out of the porous tuff rock, the catacombs date back to the 2^nd Century AD when it started out as a tomb for a noble family who then provided space for the Christian community. The remains of St Agrippinus was laid to rest in there in the 4^th century and an underground basilica dedicated to him was created. The bishop’s chair and altar are still there and Mass is still celebrated at this unique Basilica. There are two levels in the catacombs, the upper level being the burial place of bishops, including the beloved St Gennaro.

San Carlo Theatre and Circolo Nazionale dell Unione

We were immersed into more culture in the evening at the historic San Carlo Theatre where we attended a full-length opera “Electra:” by Richard Strauss. Founded in 1737, it is the oldest Opera House in Italy, and show cased performances from the famous Neapolitan School of Opera, attracting prominent composers such as Handel, Haydn and Mozart. Rossini had his first work performed at the San Carlo. Strauss and Puccini also had their operas performed at the San Carlo. Famous performers at the San Carlo include Paganini and Bellini and in modern times the famous Three Tenors and Yo Yo Ma. Dance performances are also staged at the San Carlo and famous dancers who have performed there include Nureyev, Fonteyn, Fracci and Vassiliev.

The opera was followed by an al fresco dinner on the terrace of a private gentlemen’s club, “Circolo Nazionale dell’Unione” (National Union Club). This club is adjacent to the Opera House and the building housing the club was once a part of the Royal Palace. King Vittorio Emanuele II granted permission to annex space from the palace for the location of the club. This most prestigious club in Naples has hosted many solemn and grand events with royalty and heads of state in attendance.

We received a very warm welcome from the President of the club, Giuliano Buccino Grimaldi, who briefly explained the history of the club and showed us around.

Isle of Capri

Mention Isle of Capri and the mind conjures up images an idyllic island under blue skies in the Mediterranean sea, and that’s exactly what we experienced on day 5. We sailed to Capri on a private yacht Patrizia and had a leisurely stroll round the Piazetta and Augustus Garden, taking photos of the cliffs and clear blue waters below. We also window shopped while eating gelato and taking in the Capri vibe. After our half day sojourn, we set sail for Naples at sunset, sipping cocktails and enjoying the music and singing of DJ Michael Moore. Dinner onboard was a lively affair with dancing to the many requests for “boomer” songs.

Subiaco

The second leg of our trip began the next day as we travelled by bus to the town of Subiaco en route to Rome. This is the location of the Monastery of San Benedetto, built around the mountainous cave where St Benedict stayed. The surrounding mountains and valley below are beautiful, the remote location and silence naturally draws one to prayer and contemplation. Benedictine priest Dom Maurizio OSB, met us and showed us around the fresco covered upper (13^th century) and lower (14^th century) churches. We visited the cave where St Benedict, at the age of 14,(around 494 AD) lived for three years, when he moved away from home. Here is the very place where St Benedict developed the precepts of the Benedictine Order. To help us understand the spirituality of St Benedict, Dom Maurizio gave us a talk entitled “Discovering the holiness of St Benedict”, the patron saint of Europe.

Lunch for the day a delicious meal at the Guest house, graced by the presence of Abbot Abote Dom Mauro Meacci and Dom Maurizio, after which we were taken round the Abbey of Santa Scolastica before we departed for Rome.

Rome

The city of Rome was gearing up for the Holy Year 2025, cleaning up and repairing roads to be ready for the expected 42 million visitors and pilgrims to Rome and the Vatican. Our visit started with cocktails on the roof top restaurant of our hotel, the Sina Bernini Bristol. Welcoming us to Rome were PAVM director Msgr Terence Hogan and Father Thomas Montanaro LC.

Papal Mass at St Peter’s Square

One of the highlights of every APAVM trip took place the next morning: seeing the Holy Father in St Peter’s Square. However, this year was different from previous years when we attend the weekly Wednesday General Audience. This year instead, we were blessed to be in St Peter’s Square on the opening day of the Synod on Synodality which fittingly starts with a Papal Mass.

The atmosphere in the square was one of excitement and reverence. We had to arrive very early to take our place at the VIP seating which is near the dais set up for the altar. The rosary was recited while we all waited for Mass to start, after which the choir of St Peter’s sang as Cardinals and bishops from every diocese in the world, dressed in liturgical vestments processed in. After everyone had taken their place, the main celebrant of Mass, the Holy Father, Pope Francis, made his way to the altar. The square was packed with people from all over world but we were so blessed to seated close to the Holy Father because of our membership as patrons. Pope Francis said Mass in Latin, while the intercessory prayers of the faithful were read by lectors in various languages.

Swiss Guard Barracks

After the edifying experience of attending a Papal Mass in St Peter’s Square, we went to meet the people who have been keeping the Pope safe for centuries, that is the Swiss Guards. One of the guards Vice Corporal Matthieu brought us around the Swiss Guard Barracks where we were met by their chaplain Father Kolumban. Father gave us a brief history of the Swiss Guards, who were founded by Pope Julius II. Only Swiss Nationals are allowed to apply to join and they do so at age 18 to 20, after their mandatory military service in Switzerland. To be selected as a guard is an honour and they have to serve for a minimum of 26 months. We also visited the armoury where the regalia, uniforms and armaments from the past are displayed.

Communications for the Vatican

The lunch that followed was at the roof top restaurant of our hotel which has panoramic views of the city.  Our invited speaker was Mr Sean Patrick Lovett who was the English communications director at Vatican radio and Vatican Dicastery for Communications for 43 years. He served under 5 popes and his talk, “Unpacking Pope Francis and the Vatican in the middle of a media muddle” was a fascinating insight into how the communications office manages the news and especially the controversies regarding Pope Francis, often a result of taking the Pope’s statements out of context. This problem has been magnified by the megaphone of social media in recent years, which is an extra challenge for the communications office. Mr Lovett shared his personal encounters with the Pope, the most memorable one being a personal audience before he retired, where he chatted with the Holy Father who gifted him with books which he also autographed.

The Venerable English College

We had another unique experience that evening, which was the visit to the Venerable English College. An English College in the middle of Rome is a surprising anomaly but after our welcome         by Father Stephen Wang, rector of the VEC, we were enlightened as to the reason for its founding in 727 AD. At a talk in the chapel, Father Wang told us that the college began as a hospice for English pilgrims but during the Reformation, it was turned into a seminary to train English priests, many who were martyred, beatified and canonised.

We were taken on a guided tour of the college, library and archives by Prof Maurice Whitehead followed by dinner in the College dining room.

Vatican Museums

Day 8 of the trip was a full day spent at the Vatican Museums. In the morning was a guided tour of the Pio Cristina Museum and Pinocoteca led by the head of the Didactic Section of the Vatican Museum, Sister Emanuel Edwards. Among the works that she showed us were sarcophagi with Christian carvings, a triptych by Giotto and the magnificent painting of the Transfiguration of Christ by Caravaggio. Sister was a master at explaining the history behind the art and how the artists depicted the teachings of the Catholic faith.

Women leaders in the Vatican

We were then led to the Old Vatican library auditorium where we were honoured to be met and welcomed by the Secretary of the Vatican State, Sister Rafaella Petrini and Director of the Vatican museums Dr Barbara Jatta, two women leaders in the Vatican state. Sister Rafaella delivered a talk “Women’s leadership in the Church” and emphasised how they have to be focussed on the greater mission of the Holy Father, using solidarity and collaboration to work together.

The Windows of the Loggia

Dr Barbara Jatta, the first woman Director of the Vatican Museums then spoke about the restoration of the windows of the Loggias of Raphael. These 90 windows were designed by Bramante and are on 3 levels. The windows are along the passage way that the Pope and delegates walk through when they attend meetings. The walls of the Loggias are adorned with frescoes by Raphael. After five centuries of exposure to the elements, the windows are rusted and have structural deficiencies. When it rains, water seeps in and damage the priceless frescoes.

The plan is for the windows to be replaced followed by restoration of the frescoes. Work is due to start in 2026, after the close of the Holy Year in 2025. The amount required for this major project is USD 7 million and APAVM has pledged USD1 million.        .

Gala Evening at the Vatican

A Gala Black Tie dinner at the Vatican was held that evening.  This is yet another highlight of every APAVM trip. It is traditional at every trip to begin the evening with Mass at the Governorate Chapel.  Msgr Terence Hogan said Mass, with an organist and a soprano providing the liturgical music.

We were then brought to view of the art in the Sala Ducale, Sala Regia, and the Pauline Chapel. These are areas which the general public are not allowed in. Our guide that evening was the inimitable Dr Elizabeth Lev, whose lively telling of the history and details of the art pieces brings them to life. The sala Regia is the large room next to the Sistine chapel and is where cardinals and dignitaries gather. Its walls are lined with paintings depicting many important moments in the history of the Catholic Church, like the battle of Lepanto. At the end of the Sala Regia is the Pauline Chapel. On the side walls of the Pauline chapel are paintings by Michaelangelo. The one on the right wall depicts the crucifixion of St Peter and the one left wall, the Conversion of St Paul. This is the chapel that the Pope prays in.

There is a door at the Sala Regia through which we were led. This brought us to the back of the Sistine Chapel. As it was evening, the chapel had no one else in it except for our group. Therefore, we enjoyed the magnificent art within in a relaxed manner, sans the jostling with other tourists. Dr Lev opened our eyes, minds and hearts to the art in the Sistine, the crowning glories being Michaelangelo’s Creation on the famous ceiling and Last Judgement behind the altar.

Dinner was at the museum’s Braccio Nuovo Gallery which is a first for APAVM. To set the mood for the evening were 3 harpists. As our eyes beheld the beautiful art everywhere, our ears were filled with celestial music and it felt like heaven!

Pontifical Athenaeum Regina Apostolorum

The final day of the trip was spent at the Pontifical Athenaeum Regina Apostolorum, the university of the Legionaries of Christ. On hand to welcome us were Father Thomas Montanaro LC, the Executive Chairman and Father Andrew Dalton, Professor of Theology.  Father Dalton gave us a presentation entitled “Baptised into Life and Light: How the Shroud of Turin speaks to the Victory of the Kingdom of God”. This was held in the room housing the Permanent exhibition of the Holy Shroud, which is a very moving display of the Passion of Jesus. This exhibition has a full-length reproduction of the Holy Shroud, story boards telling the history of the Shroud, models of the instruments of Christ’s passion and art depicting the Man of the Shroud.

After the very moving reminder of Christ Passion, another Legionary, Professor of Theology Father Vincenz Heereman gave us a presentation on exorcism entitled “Plunged into Death and Darkness: How the Rite of Exorcism speaks to the Defeat of the Kingdom of Satan”. His talk put to rest many of the mythical depictions of demonic possession depicted in the movies and clarified the Catholic Church’s teaching on demonic possession and exorcism.

The morning’s weighty topics were balanced with a pleasant lunch, with many of the Legionary Father joining us.

Final dinner and farewell

Our final dinner that evening was at the Botanical Rooftop of the Horti 14 hotel. Many patrons stood up to thank our Chairman Ben Chang and his wife Kim for organising a meticulously planned itinerary, filled with many exclusive and exquisite artistic and cultural experiences.

We dined, toasted and bade each other farewell, hoping to meet again at the next APAVM trip.

At the end of this trip, this quotation from Ben Chang’s message in the trip booklet hold true: “Beauty Ever Ancient, Ever New” It’s meaning will grow on you as you open your mind to the beauty of art and architecture, in all its manifestations, an earthly reflection of God’s glory – a glory that leads to truth and goodness.

Resources

1. Maria Cristina White-Da Cruz – Art historian, lecturer and glass artist
2. Dr Philip Farrugia Randon – Doctor of Laws, author and Knight Grand Cross of Magistral Grace in Obedience of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta
3. Dom Maurizio O.S.B. – Prior of the Sacro Speco Monastery (San Benedetto)
4. Sean-Patrick Lovett – Professor of Social Communications, Pontifical Gregorian University, Rome
5. Father Stephen Wang – Rector of the Venerble English College in Rome
6. Professor Maurice Whitehead – Research Fellow and Director of Heritage Collections , Venerable English College in Rome
7. Sister Emanuela Edwards, MDR – Head of Didactic Section in the Vatican Museums
8. Sister Rafaella Petrini, F.S.E. – President of the Vatican City State
9. Dr Elizabeth Lev – Professor of Art History and licenced guid of Rome and the Vatican City State
10. Father Thomas Montanaro, LC – Executive Chairman of the Regina Apostolorum Foundations
11. Father Andrew Dalton, LC – Professor Incarito of Theology, Pontifical Athenaeum Regina Apostolorum in Rome
12. Father Vincenz Heereman, LC – Professor Incarito of Theology, Pontifical Athenaeum Regina Apostolorum in Rome
13. Roberta Maione Oranges – Sole administrator, Sistema Congressi S.r.l., ground agent, Naples
14. Roberta Buccino Grimaldi – stema Congressi S.r.l., ground agent, Naples
15. ssa Roberta Meomartini – Art historian and tour guide, Naples
16. Dr Nicola Prisco – Curator, Museo dell”Opera di Santa Chiara
17. Mattio Buondonno – Conservator and guide, Pompeii
18. Marily Guadagno – Official tourist guide, Regione Campania